" Are you stoned?"... ...."No I'm just surfed out"...



To my non-surfing Friends... 

You ask what's it like to surf...???... I'll tell you...


You drive in the dark for over an hour... Put out the Discover Pass, put on a coat and walk in the gale force freezing wind to check the surf... Good enough... 

Go back to the van, now with the gale force freezing wind in your face... You are getting cold...

Inside the still warm van, you undress and put on a skin tight wetsuit, boots and gloves... Takes at least ten minutes... Grab your board and fins and double check you have the key and earplugs... The walk to the paddle out point takes ten minutes, again in the freezing cold gale force wind... Not so much a walk as a struggle...You get colder...

At waters edge, you sit on the sand, cram your feet into the fins, put the leash around your wrist and get up and walk like a duck into the water... The cold water... As soon as you are knee deep, you flop onto your board, notice the water is colder by now, then kick along the jetty to the place where the waves break...

A wave comes to you, you lay on the board with one arm on the nose and the other near the tail and if your positioning is right, you get the wave... Then it all happens fast,. Everything from now to the end of the wave is reactionary and coming at you in a flash with wind in your face and spray in your eyes....

When you feel "the slide" and start dropping down the wave, you instinctively adjust your position fore and aft on the board, the weight distribution on the board with your hands, and the needed rigidity of your body for the wave... It all happens fast...

By now you are moving fast, very fast, high in the pocket of the wave, expecting disaster but not yet, again the wind is tearing at your face and the spray in your eyes feels like a sprayer on a garden hose, and it doesn't stop... However, you are FLYING...!!!... Until you say "enough", push the wave side edge of the board into the wave and pop out the back...

Immediately you calves start to cramp, so you frog kick a few strokes then lazily kick your way back to the place where the ride first started, and do it again... For three hours...

Oh yeah, you don't even notice the cold, until you get out and do the ten minute walk back, in the gale force, freezing cold wind, back to the van... Now you are frozen... Next you take twenty minutes to get out of you wetsuit that is now truly your outside skin layer... With frozen hands...

You get dried off, dressed, and walk across the parking lot for another look at the surf and someone asks you: " Are you stoned?"... ...."No I'm just surfed out"...